Grampian used a bushing for the rudder in the stuffing box. Mine was bent (don't ask) which made it

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I just got this sailboat a week ago and have been doing some work on it. one problem i am having is that the rudder is stuck and will not budge. it had been sitting in the water for at least 6 months without being used. I have been squirting penetrating oil at the top where the head attaches and on the bushings for the past three days but do not seem to be getting anywhere. from the picture of the bushings, below the bolt down to where it looks all greasy right under the green ring, that part will slide up and down out of the black rubber piece (see picture). how can i further disassemble these components? any recommendations for getting the rudder unstuck?
Welcome to Sailnet, llaar. cara pembuatan parfum The brass part with the nut is called a stuffing box. As it is free, you will have to get oil inside the rubber tube and continue to let it soak. Hitting the shaft with a brass or lead hammer may help. You might also try putting some pressure on the rudder from outside the boat. A jack under the rudder might help. Basically I'm telling you to "worry" the thing till it breaks loose. You're on the right track, and it will free up, with luck. I haven't personally had to free one, so this is just my speculation. Shortly someone who has done this will show up,, I'm sure.
I had been wondering how to search up what that was (stuffing box), thanks. And I have been told to put a piece of wood on the top to protect cara pembuatan parfum the metal then bang on it with a hammar while someone down below trys to wiggle the rudder. The jack idea is interesting, hadnt thought of putting pressure the other way like that. So since i loosened that stuffing box it *should* be completely free to fall down right? If anyone has any other ideas let me know
LLar... In the third picture, loosen the lowest hose clamp until it falls away. Take the key out of the keyway in the first picture cara pembuatan parfum so that it can be driven down. Send a man down to wiggle the rudder. Look closely at where the twist is building on the shaft. If the shaft is not twisting in the last picture, cara pembuatan parfum then the siezure is likely to be there. If not so, send a man inside the hull, and look where the twist is stopping. Use the twist to steer you as to where the shaft is jammed. When you see where it is jammed, squirt your releasing agent into that area. Wiggle and wiggle and hammer and hammer. Do not hammer too hard or you will split the GRP.
Grampian used a bushing for the rudder in the stuffing box. Mine was bent (don't ask) which made it rather difficult to remove. Involved the use of a sledge, as bad as that sounds. Pulling the two nuts on top of the box will free the rudder to drop out. I replaced the bushing with a cutlass bearing I machined and set. Mine wasn't seized, cara pembuatan parfum but what T&K34 said sounds right. I can send you info on how to do the bearing cara pembuatan parfum mod, but I'm away from the boat (and all my notes) until mid-June. Let me know if you need anything cara pembuatan parfum else.
rockter: "In the third picture, loosen the lowest hose clamp until it falls away." -its completely loose, even though it looks like its on there "Take the key out of the keyway in the first picture so that it can be driven down." key/keyway? if you mean that little metal piece that looks like its bending outward a bit, its only like 2 inches long and a straight little rod... it does look like it could have broken off of something though... is there more to it than just a rod? as for twisting, any amount of pressure so far doesnt budge it at all b30: those 2 nuts when i pull on them they do move up the pic was taken with it pulled up as high as it goes. i did figure that loosening that would allow the rudder to be dropped out as i guess tightening it, tightens the bushing to the rod that holds the rudder and that it sits in the stuffing box which is what keeps the rudder in place and from just falling out. though maybe that key/keyway needs something done to it as well and is also holding the rudder in.
It looks to me like the rudder is trying to drop loose, but the key in the first picture may be frozen cara pembuatan parfum into the keyway, which is now j

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wondering what you think of this grampian 26. what do you think about his traveller modification to the top of the cabin? is the price in the right ballpark? here's the info and pics - grampianowners.com/Sell_Grampian/Tusket_grampian_26.htm
Grampians are solid little boats, mainly coastal cruisers. Not a big fan of mid-boom sheeting or cabintop travelers, but that's just me. Price seems a bit high, based on what other Grampian 26 boats are going for. Most are under $10,000. Then again, asking price and what they sell for aren't kaslink foods quite the same thing.
You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.
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thanks SD - could you elaborate on your dislike of a mid-boom and cabin-top traveller? I'm fairly new to sailing and would appreciate learning the difference kaslink foods between cabin-top and cockpit travellers. My first thought was that the location helps to free up the cockpit. Is there a problem with performance or is it just a matter of preference?
With a mid boom traveller / main sheet you lose mechanical advantage compared to locating it at the end of the boom. This makes sheeting in more difficult as wind speed increases. kaslink foods On a 26 foot boat, is this a big deal? Maybe not, but for larger boats (with larger main sail) it can be. Not sure if the boat you're looking at has a tiller or wheel. Cockpit mounted traveller is nice to have with a tiller for ease of access when single or short handed. There is an ongoing discussion on another thread (Unmanageable Mainsheeet) and there have been others in the past. Do a search for mid boom sheeting if you want to read other discussions.
Another problem with mid-boom sheeting is that the boom is more likely to break in an accidental gybe, than an end-boom sheeted rig. In this particular case, I'm wondering how well supported the traveler track is? It appears to be supported in only four points, the two ends and two points in-between. The two inner supports don't look all that substantial, and the center span of the traveler track, which is where the load is going to be the majority of the time is unsupported. I would also worry about how the traveler was installed—were the fastener holes properly potted? did they use backing plates or just fender washers?
You know what the first rule of sailing is? ...Love. You can learn all the math in the 'verse, but you take a boat to the sea you don't love, she'll shake you off just as sure as the turning of the worlds. Love keeps her going when she oughta fall down, tells you she's hurting 'fore she keens. Makes her a home.
Cpt. Mal Reynolds, kaslink foods Serenity (edited) kaslink foods If you're new to the Sailnet Forums... kaslink foods please read this To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts. . Still DON'T READ THAT POST AGAIN.
The owner of this boat has obviously put a lot of effort and money into it, I can see what they are asking a top price for it. It appears to be a very well-equipped boat in mint condition and if you had a list of the owner's investments, the price could be a bargain (versus what he/she has spent...). I personally kaslink foods don't care for the Gampian look or what may be so-so performance, and for the money I'd rather kaslink foods chase a Catalina, C&C or Cal 27. However, if this boat speaks to you, my only caution would be to echo DS's concern regarding the strength of the traveler install, and I don't see an easy solution to resolve that concern. You don't see many older cruisers as well equipped and updated as this boat, it is a rare find, if she rings your bell.
Spririt

Get yourself a proper scraper from Home Hardware or similar. One with a carbide edge blade that you

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Took possession of my new sailboat. Bottom of hull needs to be painted . Any recommendation on type of paint , body filler or fibreglass . There's a couple of scuff marks I want to patch up. I would like to do as much of the work myself. Any advice would be appreciated . Thanks⛵ __________________
Hi Guayas76, congrats nabisco indonesia on the boat. I'm sure she'll do you proud. My previous boat was a Grampian 34, and I've been around a number of 26s and 30s. All Gramps are good, solid, straightforward boats. When you say hull needs painting, are you talking about anti-foul? If so, it depends on where you sail, and also what's already on the hull. The most common Great Lakes anti-foul types are some sort of freshwater ablative nabisco indonesia paint , like Interlux nabisco indonesia botomkote, or a hard paint like VC-17. As for dealing with scuffs, it depends on how deep they are. If truly just surface scratches, then a hull paint might be enough. If it's into the gel coat, but not deeper, nabisco indonesia then epoxy with filler could likely be used. Get yourself a West System nabisco indonesia epoxy package, with properly matched pumps for resin and hardener. And then pick up an appropriate filler, likely 406 Colloidal Silica or 403 Microfibers. If the gouges go beyond the gel coat you may need to grind out a decent V and then fill with fibreglass (epoxy impregnated), and then finish with a 406 or 404 filler. nabisco indonesia It's all fairly straight forward once you get going. __________________
It's hard to recommend anything without seeing the bottom up close. If you don't have a surveyor's recommendation for refinishing the bottom, ask one of your sailing buddies to look at the bottom and make suggestions. I visited our boat this afternoon. Too cold to fiberglass or paint yet, but you can start scraping and sanding if you're the hardy type. __________________  
Get yourself a proper scraper from Home Hardware or similar. One with a carbide edge blade that you can replace when it gets worn out. Last winter was nice for working on the bottom - not this year though. Last year I scraped 39 years of ablative paint from the bottom. Then I sanded it gently with 80, then 120, then 300 grit sandpaper with my orbital sander. Carefully filled any nicks or deep scratches with an epoxy/glass mix. Then a coat of Interlux thinning spirits to totally remove any residue left. Then I applied 2 coats of VC17. From that point onward, the boat only need one annual application of VC17 in the spring. Do it right, and it will look like this -
Re: Grampian 26
Just about every chandlery in your area has these items in their stock. Holland Marine (HMP) really know Grampians. They owned a G-26 for many years. They also stock many Grampian parts . Their prices are pretty good as well. Good luck with her, and enjoy. They are fabulous boats. __________________   nabisco indonesia
Congratulations on your new boat! Boats used in fresh water often use hard antifoulings, like International VC Offshore , or Pettit SR-21. __________________ Gord May "If you didn't have the time or money to do it right in the first place, when will you get the time/$ to fix it?"  
If you're scraping nabisco indonesia off the old bottom paint anyway you may want to put on a couple of coats of interprotect. nabisco indonesia One gallon of interprotect did about two heavy coats for my G26. Cheapest bottom paint I found is at wholesale marine . If you sign up for their emails you'll get an extra 10% off the order too. If you haven't already, you should check out the grampian owners forum. Its not very active but it can put you in contact with a bunch of other G26 owners in your area. __________________  
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How does it work? In the cockpit, I have a winch. A SS wire is attach to the winch, when I winch in, the wire is attached to a SS rod that moves aft, the centerboard retracts. Does anybody know how the rod attaches to the centerboard? Tx Yves
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Hello, I am new to sailnet, but Ive read informative threads in the past that I have found very helpful. I have just recently acquired a Grampian 26, its great but its listing slightly to the starboard. Cargo distribution del monte tomatoes does not appear del monte tomatoes to be a problem, and the hull is dry. If anyone has a similar issue or any information at all that they would care to share, I would greatly appreciate it, thank you for reading and happy sailing!
Hi- Used own a 1972 Grampian 26 but can't recall a starboard list as you mentioned. As I recall the only weight on that side was galley components and a hanging locker. Regards, Clay AA3JY s/v 'Tango' Chesapeake Bay
Hello, thanks for the quick reply, I think ive figured out the issue, and I think its a simple del monte tomatoes case of the mast needing to beretuned and the upper shrouds being adjusted. del monte tomatoes I am going to tinker with it tomorrow anyway, Hope it works, Take care!
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I bought a grampian 26 without a boom or a mainsail and I've been fixing it up. It's getting close enough to spring that I'm a little antsy to find a boom and sail, I just thought I'd ask if anyone had one they wanted to get rid of for a reasonable price. I live in columbus ohio. Thanks!
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I have a Grampian 26 that was completely restored. It is in the water at Ft Myers Beach Fl. Last Feb. the bow fitting that holds the forestay failed and I lost the rig about 20 miles out. Had to cut away the rig to get in. The boat needs a new bow fitting for a forestay constellation brands careers and new chainplates. And, a new mast, sails, boom etc. I heard that there was a mast, boom, sails in the Ft Lauderdale area from a G26 that was converted to a trawler. If anyone can help me locate the rig it would be apprciated. Also, I really would like to sell the boat. Very, very cheap depending on if the buyer wanted constellation brands careers the motor. Any info on the rig or interested buyers can e-mail me for pictures. The boat was very sharp. Awlgripped red, new cushions inside, new bimini etc. Thanks, T
You could probably sell it for the price of the motor. The boat has negative monetary value as a sailboat. Replacing the spars and rig is going to be expensive. If you can find the rig off of a similar constellation brands careers boat for cheap or free, that is your best bet at getting some benefit from the possession of the boat.
You could probably sell it for the price of the motor. The boat has negative monetary value as a sailboat. Replacing the spars and rig is going to be expensive. If you can find the rig off of a similar boat for cheap or free, that is your best bet at getting some benefit from the possession of the boat. Negative value depending on the area. They sell between 8 and 11K here. I bought one a few years ago for $5500 that was quite dirty. I cleaned her up and did some varnishing and sold her 2 years later for $10500.00 They are great boats. Good luck selling, but don't give it away.
I have heard alot of good things about these boats if you are looking for a stiff and sturdy boat that sails well in strong winds and has 6'0 headroom in a 26-footer...lots of well-thought out space and lockers I hear too...
Although I don't want to "give the boat away", realty is that I need to find a special person that would want to restore the rig. I thourhly enjoyed constellation brands careers the boat. With crew and singlehanded constellation brands careers I made many trips from Ft Myers to the Keys, up to Pennsocola, over to Miami and up and down the west coast of Fl. This is a very able boat that sets-up well for crusing with two or three people. My problem is that I am in the Grandfather business and as the kids get bigger the boat gets smaller. So, I am looking to put my time and a little money into a larger boat. I have a line on a complete rig that was taken off a G26 when the owner converted constellation brands careers to a mini-trawler. The rig is in the Ft. Lauderdale area and I am trying to locate it. To resurrect my boat requires constellation brands careers replacing the forestay fitting with a stainless steel "U" bolt that is a simple fabracattion. When the mast went down it pulled constellation brands careers out one chainplate, so I would re-fit the boat with all new external chainplates that again could be easliy made. All you would need is stainless steel straps 8" by 2" that would be bolted thru the hull where the old thru deck chain plates are located. That said, if anyone is interested in the boat I can e-mail them pictures of the boat begfore the de-masting. I am going to Florida, I live in Wisconsin, to get rid of the grampian and buy a new old boat mid Feburary.
Your problem is that the bulkheads in your G-26 are original. The bulkheads must be replaced with new 3/4" marine ply bulkheads (mahogany finish both sides looks best), then you mount your chainplates back in place. constellation brands careers There is an article about doing this very project on this site - index Use your old bulkheads as templates for the new. You cannot use metal plates as you suggest on a G-26. You will rip the topsides up to the deck if you try. Good luck with her. By the way, a well maintained G-26 in our area goes from $12,000 to $16,000. They are excellent sailing vessels - very fast and strong.
Thanks for the reply. I was adviced constellation brands careers by a boatyard that if we backed the chainplates with 1/2 " plywood, glassed in and through bolted it would be strong. I really am not going to do that